As Milan’s week with menswear comes to a close, we take a look at some of the most standout collections that we at SPICE will have a hard time forgetting over Spring/Summer’14.
Here’s our rundown of 10 of the best that showed – have a look and see if there’s something you can keep in mind this season and plan to own come fall;
Inspired by Brit singer David Bowie, designer Ennio Capasa played with blue, purple, black and shocking red, and is said to have had Bowie’s Berlin era in the late seventies in mind. Print, fur and leather also lurked within the collection, where over-sized sleeves slinked their way out of double-breasted coats. Just Brilliant work.
Dolce & Gabbana
Double act Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce put on a show fit for a king – one charged with masculine pageantry and a clear root in the historical. Models were accessorized with coronets, gauntlets and oversized sweats that were printed with 11th century Nordic kings. A real gem in the realm of menswear, an invasion of Dolce & Gabbana‘s collection in your A/W’14 wardrobe can only improve your ensembles, royally.
“My CEO told me I had to show a lot of product,” Donatella said of her collection, which had ‘western’ written all over it. Butt-less chaps showed off model’s bandana-print underwear (“male lingerie!”, as the designer stated) and there were thematic studded codpieces, as well as cactus, horseshoe and sheriff’s badge appliqués for good measure. “There’s a young Versace customer who is looking for these products,” apparently. Are you one of them? We at SPICE would shoot for a few.
Working for the first time without founder, Jil Sander herself, the label’s team took tailoring to every edge possible of a man’s wardrobe, to include suits, knits and marvelous, metallic disco pants that look to be cut for the office – perhaps for one whose work environment includes a casual Friday, or for whom after work drinks feature heavily. We love the clean cut feel to the collection and look forward to its female counter part.
There was something very easy about Bottega Veneta’s collection – easy to wear and to add to your existing wardrobe. Green featured heavily – pea green, which is otherwise and infamously difficult to dress with – as well as stained knitwear that you’d be clever to pour into your personal collection.
Italo Zucchelli said of his A/W’14 collection for Calvin Klein, “Obsession is the best name ever for a perfume,” which could explain why his sweatshirts bore the name of the brand’s best selling fragrances; Obsession, Escape, and Eternity, too. Carrying all the luxe appeal you’d expect, watching Calvin Klein’s A/W’14 line on the runway – described by its creative director as ‘urban workwear’ – felt like watching well-dressed labourers (sometimes astronauts, somehow) on a very stylish day at graft. Oversized, masculine… We like.
Missoni’s collection put surfer vibes to all sorts of knits, going oversized with mohair and yak wool blankets, and getting lounge-y with laid-back, patterned suits. Team yours with sandals, trainers, or heeled, suede boots and you’ll be staring out at the same stretch of style as designer, Angela Missoni.
Three-piece suits, complete with tie, gloves and bag, came bound in matching check at Etro – a possible reflection on the current trend in Milan, where men go full-pelt for proper, top-to-toe dapper dressing. The modern take on a refined look also saw Etro’s signature paisley print in play – it’s best reincarnation seeing it plastered in velvet over a long coat.
Said to have been inspired by Venetian traditions, 80 year old Italian suit label Canali put velvet on the map, with smart trousers and jackets, shown alongside wallpaper printed jacquard suits. If ever there was a time to blend in with the walls, A/W’14 may be it.
As expected from the designer, a very flash collection shot down the runway at Roberto Cavalli, who single-handely designed each piece, including a rabbit fur coat and trousers safety-pinned down the seams. More on the DIY vibe, Cavalli also used his own photos to create his prints, and gold highlights could nod to his well-known penchant for the glamourous. Either way, it worked.
Image source: Style.com