While Team SPICE take in all things ‘Tribe’ this month on the site, womenswear takes a bit of a backseat as we continue to catch up with the men’s camp, following the just-concluded South African Menswear Week, which held from July 2nd to July 4th.
With 28 designers in showcase in Cape Town, including designers from Ghana, Nigeria, Tanzania, Zimbabwe and Angola, the event was one not to be missed – so be sure to see our Runway Rundown of the best 10 collections to have graced its catwalk, below.
1. Jenevieve Lyons
Cape Town-based designer, Jenevieve Lyons opened South African Menswear Week with a cool collection she dubbed the “Alabaster Collection.”
The Spring/Summer’16 lineup contained a hot palette of burnt orange, khaki and tobacco, and – with the designer’s love of collecting “un-beautiful and strange things” – was born from unusual inspiration: Granite, as in, yes, the stone.
Summarising her collection in four words, the talent described “Alabaster” as;
“Textured, minimal, tonal and layered.”
We at SPICE were totally digging it and guys should unearth some of it to rock next Summer, for sure.
2. Terrence Bray
Durban-based talent Terrence Bray brought soft tailoring to the ramp via a sporty yet romanticised instinct.
The lineup saw fresh reasons for men to think about florals this time next year, when the ladies will be donning them too, with Mr Bray’s faded botanical prints landing on everything from laid back suits to shorts and tiny pants.
We dare you not to want to pluck a piece for your wardrobe – the briefs being a good start for the fashion-loving wallflower.
3. Presidential Shirts
Taking inspiration from once-President of South Africa, Nelson Mandela and his iconic shirt collection, menswear label Presidential Shirt hit the ramp with a whole lot of pizazz, making a splash with flashy metallic suits and plenty of prints to think about – some hand-painted and some digitally-produced.
Team SPICE were particularly loving the infusion of gender-bending bow ties which came larger-than-life and coordinating with the colour of a trouser here and there. Cute stuff if tailoring’s your thing but playing it safe isn’t.
Following a showcase at Milan’s Pitti Uomo, South African designer Laduma Ngxokolo took Maxhosa’s Spring/Summer’16 collection to South Africa for another spin, and made our Runway Rundown yet again (see the first time, here) as one of the best in show.
The range of cropped jumpers, shorts and joggers had Cape Town’s Frow impressed and we at SPICE thinking about ways to wear the range before Spring/Summer hits, in the coming Winter, too.
5. M’Oko Elose by Julia M’Poko
Julia M’Poko is known for her wiles in luxury womenswear, but made waves this Fashion Week with her debut in menswear – a triumphant collection that will expand her brand M’Oko Elosa into the men’s category.
Following the launch of her label’s Autumn/Winter’15 collection (see that, here), the rising talent is now designing for guys who like immaculate tailoring and high quality classics, Ms M’Poko explaining the ethos of her brand is;
“…To eliminate all elements of clutter.”
We at SPICE admired the fiery shades and the Afrocentric vibe to each look, and think there’ll be no stopping Ms M’Poko or whatever future brand expansion she’s planning.
6. Simon Deporres
Brilliant threesome behind menswear label Simon Deporres, Simon Pocock, Mpilo Deporres Ngcukana and Jesse Lange comprised their Spring/Summer’16 collection of easy-going separates and sent it to showcase at SAMW – their first ever catwalk showcase, not that you’d be able to tell.
Titled the “Globalist Collection,” the designers explained the range was designed;
“…To bridge the gap between tailored menswear, streetwear and performance wear; for a more practical way of living.”
And, with it’s cool street-meets-preppy and attention to form, we reckon adding a piece or too to one’s wardrobe is more than a practical decision to make, but a good one.
7. Lukhanyo Mdingi
East London-born, Cape Town-based designer, Lukhanyo Mdingi put bright whites and easy-chic on the map again for Spring/Summer, with a collection that we could do with getting our hands on already.
Utilitarian inspirations came to the fore with pockets upon pockets, floppy bucket hats and minimalist bomber jackets, all set into a monochromatic palette disturbed heavily by a beautiful navy shade that came sheer and showing off skin.
Titled the “Taintless Collection,” it seems we’ve found the stuff to stay cool in for Spring/Summer’16 – things we at SPICE intend to be sporting.
8. Oath by Rich Mnisi
New talent Rich Mnisi has had much success since his win in 2014 at both Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Joburg’s AFI Fastrack and the ‘AFI Young Designer of the Year’ at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Africa – and now he’s winning us over with his newest rad offering.
The Marie Claire, ELLE, GQ and Sunday Times-featured label is said to be inspired by pop culture and contemporary sportswear, hence there was a catwalk full of strong standouts we could imagine on any young star – the textures and vibrant palette put to interchangeable pieces that wouldn’t be out of place in a music video or on the back of one of fashion’s It kids.
What we were particularly impressed with were the open-collared, printed twinsets and varied styles of jackets, plus the pyjama-style separates that we saw slinking down the runway.
Basically, don’t sleep on Rich Mnisi – the name that’s soon to be synonymous with those at the top.
9. Palse Homme
Paledi Segapo – the brain behind Palse – sent his models out with chins dipped in gold and bodies drenched in white, the designer’s preferred pallette for Spring/Summer’16.
Bold, multi-directional stripings of red and black broke the blanc-out though, with the odd pop of hot pink also included in the lineup, with the Jo’Burg-based creative going the tailored, clean and chic route for his “Decandence” collection.
We at SPICE applaud the smarter take on the shorts trend that’s gripped menswear for a minute, but most of all we appreciated the embrace of lace in the range, which made unexpected appearances on the legs of trousers and on tight tops.
1o. Kola Kuddus
Nigerian designer Kola Kuddus showed his West African roots with a collection that also toyed with Arabian touches and came accessorised with ‘do-try-this-at-home’ turbans.
Asymmetric hems and graphic shapes formed of stripes made for standout looks on the runway, with a rainbow of colour colliding with formal black, grey and navy bases – the loose fit and casual silhouettes contrasting with slimmer shapes, too.
Favourites for Team SPICE came in the shape of smart tunics and tees decorated with diagonally-set stripes – things we’re sure to want in our wardrobe when we need to look like Spring/Summer’s weather: hot, hot, hot!
Was there a collection we missed though? Do let us know your favourites fro South African Menswear Week below in the comments box, or online @SPICETVAFRICA.
Image source: Gq.co.za, Hautefashionafrica.com