Monday, September 20, 2021

#RunwayRundown: South African Menswear Week #SS17

South African Menswear Week concluded on Saturday 9th of July, leaving us to contemplate the sheer awesomeness of the showcases that held in Cape Town’s Greenpoint Stadium.

But amongst over 40 designers who revealed their vision for Spring/Summer’17, we’ve whittled down our faves to the 10 collections that resonated most with us – the ones that scored top sartorial points from Team SPICE.

CHULAAP

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CHULAAP by Chu Suwannapha was just a joy to see unfold on the ramp, with its bold, “African Surfers” collection making a splash at SAMW.

The range included a collision of prints, which featured crocodiles, birds and playful Ankara, as well as pixelated portraits created by UK-based illustrator Camilla Perkins, which combined for a new sort of nostalgia.

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Made in Africa, the collection was adorned by jewels and customised sunglasses by Rings and Things, which added to the eclectic and tribal vibes, along with the models’ painted faces.

Fun and fashion combined here in a way that felt refreshing, and we can’t wait to dip into Chuulap’s version of Spring/Summer’17 when it arrives.

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Orange Culture

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Adebayo Oke-Lawal of Orange Culture sent his “School of Rejects” collection down the ramp at SAMW and by the time the showcase was over, he’d already secured mentions in top press, including Elle, Marie Claire and Hunger Magazine.

Just brilliant, and bright, the range included the brand’s namesake hue on mandarin collared playsuits, plus a playful print made up of hand signs like the ‘Vulcan salute’, sprayed across shiny two pieces and reminding us of our obsession with emojis.

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From the plunging necklines that promise to show pecs next Summer, to the pendants made in collaboration with Rokus London, we know where our next style obsession lies.

TwoBop

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Appearing to dance between punk and hiphop influences, South African label TwoBop created a range of goods that’ll work as well in the streets as it will online, tapping into that cult-following feel that’s ripe for likes on social media.

The brand’s model gang stepped out in bucket hats, bomber jackets and tees with cartoon prints, plus there were windbreaker-like collared jackets embroidered with a ’90s feeling logo, up in flames.

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Nostalgia here remained key to the designer, whose label is inspired by video game culture from the ’80s to ’90s. And we at SPICE are ready to level up our wardrobe with any of the pieces from this new collection.

Tokyo James

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Nigerian talent Tokyo James showcased a cool collection at SAMW, entitled “The Circle of Life”, which saw printed slogans like “No One Cares” running along lapels, and a retro vibe reworked for looking good, now.

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The stylist-turned designer also collaborated with costume and accessories designer, Something Shit, to include these handmade leather and brass neckpieces and harnesses, which punctuated the collection.

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We at SPICE love the statement and can see it coming full circle, from catwalk to closets, next season.

Rich Mnisi x Thebe Magugu

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Collaborating on a line for Spring/Summer’17, Jo’berg-based Mr Mnisi and Mr Magugu looked to their family memories for inspiration, working on a range entitled “Family Photos”.

Mr Magugu posted to Instagram;

“…One can’t help but smile when looking down at old photos.

When we started this collection, the nostalgia that undercuts the passing of time held our fascination as we started having a conversation around recontextualization and how basic staples could be reimaged, fashioned and even considered modern.”

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But the talents also had social-political inspirations, with the emerging designer, Thebe explaining;

“The idea of recapturing all these memories in a re-imagined way made way for a deeper conversation about modernity and how it’s always used as an antonym in relation to Africa, at least aesthetically.

It made us start reading the work of fashion theorists who expand on the theory of ‘the west’ and ‘the rest’. Is it not funny how the antonym of words like Modernity, Science and Contemporary are Traditional, Mystic and Antiquated, which are often equated to us as Africans, not only aesthetically but as our way of life.”

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The pair worked themes of “Africanism, Modernity and Family History together with experiences and views of what it was like growing up in an African home” into a range that saw family photos appearing pinned to clothes, and menswear recalling ’70s womenswear  via oversized bell sleeves, sheer details and metallic pink infusions. And we at SPICE fell right in love with it.

Dicker

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Also working with a nostalgic spirit, Dicker sent models out in grungy jumpers and du-rags – a culture clash we’re certain will do well with the cool kids of today.

Instagram-ready and incase you’d forget the brand name, chokers and high-sitting collars came etched with “Dicker”, in keeping with the monochromatic palette of the collection.

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Team SPICE are Team Dicker for casual outings in Spring/Summer’17.

Ruald Rheeder

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At Ruald Rheeder, there was a daring dedication to lace and luxe trimmings that one might not expect to find for men.

There were plunging lace shirts, beaded blazers, glittering neck embellishes and Balmain-esque belts and cuffs – all cut to a slim silhouette and merging womenswear elements with traditional tailoring.

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A highly decadent range for Spring/Summer’17, this collection’s one for dudes who don’t play when it comes to declaring their love for shiny things and style.

Maxivive

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Nigerian label Maxivive sent a Harmattan-ready collection down the ramp at Cape Town, called “Yegwa in Venezuela”.

The collection, which tells the story of a man’s travels through the South American country, included functional, lightweight two-pieces and dungarees in white and grey, with sporty elements like mesh and toggle fastenings appearing here and there.

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Perfect ensembles for the Harmattan/Dry season, this is the range to do your wardrobe right with, whatever the weather or the adventure.

Jenevieve Lyons

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There was something about SA-based Jenevieve Lyons‘ “Deferential” collection, and it’s easy-abrupt collision of palette and punctuation; the softening hues of pink, beige and cream along with the giant tasselled neckpieces, and the unusual blocked-out silhouettes.

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Playing on “the ugly, gender fluidity, and the juxtaposition of what may be culture and amalgamated culture,” the range works cutouts and belted pieces into an unusual lineup that speaks of today’s digital landscape.

While we aren’t sure about the versatility of those one-sided shoulder details, we are intrigued and impressed by the most wearable pieces; the paper bag-style high waists and cut-and-paste print of the tops Lyons featured.

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Mai Atafo

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Suitwear specialist, Mai Atafo thought about what he’d like to wear on a Thursday specifically when designing this range – a day when, according to the designer, “you don’t want to look so serious, but you also want to look like you can be serious.”

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The resulting “Sartorial Thursday” collection is a creation of smart-casual separates made from suit fabrics, which you can style up or down accordingly.

The use of bold yellow is a highlight of the range and is found on things we’d wear on Thursday, but also any other day of the week.

But what did you think of the designs on the catwalk? Tell us about your favourite collections from South African Menswear Week, by tagging us in your comments online @SPICETVAFRICA.

Video & image source: @Maxivive, @_Somethingshit_, @Afahionfriendsa, @Rualdrheeder, Pinterest.com, Hunger.tv, Okayafrica.com

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